The complete guide to motorcycle tyres

Understanding motorcycle tyre construction

The construction of a motorcycle tyre plays a major role in how it handles, wears and performs. The two main types are radial and cross-ply (also known as bias-ply). While they may look similar from the outside, they’re built very differently.

Most modern road bikes use radial tyres, while many classic motorcycles, cruisers and smaller-capacity machines continue to use cross-ply tyres. Your motorcycle manufacturer will specify the correct construction, and it’s important to follow those recommendations.

Radial tyres

Radial tyres are constructed with the carcass cords running at approximately 90 degrees to the direction of travel, with additional reinforcing belts beneath the tread. This allows the sidewalls and tread to flex independently.

The result is a tyre that generally offers:

• Better grip, particularly when cornering.
• Improved stability at higher speeds.
• Reduced rolling resistance.
• Better heat dissipation.
• Longer tread life under normal road use.

These characteristics make radial tyres the preferred choice for most modern sports bikes, sports tourers, adventure bikes and many larger road motorcycles. You can identify a radial tyre by the letter R after the speed rating in the size code (for example, 120/70 16 ZR).

Cross-ply tyres

Cross-ply tyres are built using layers of cords that run diagonally across the tyre, with each layer crossing the previous one. This creates a stiffer overall construction.

Cross-ply tyres are often found on:

• Classic motorcycles.
• Cruisers.
• Smaller capacity motorcycles.
• Some off-road machines.

Although they generally don’t offer the same high-speed performance as radial tyres, they can provide excellent durability and strong load-carrying characteristics, making them well suited to the motorcycles they were designed for.

Can you mix radial and cross-ply tyres?

As a general rule, you should fit the type of tyre specified by the motorcycle manufacturer.

Some motorcycles are designed to use a radial rear tyre with a cross-ply front, or vice versa, but this is only where the manufacturer specifically approves the combination.

Fitting an incorrect combination can affect handling, stability and braking performance. If you’re unsure, always check your owner’s handbook or refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

For a more detailed explanation of the differences, see our Radial vs Cross-ply Motorcycle Tyres Guide.

Tubed or tubeless?

Motorcycle tyres are available in two main types: tubeless (TL) and tube-type (TT).

Although they may look similar, they are designed for different wheel types and should be fitted correctly to ensure safe operation.

Tubeless tyres

Tubeless tyres seal directly against the wheel rim, so no inner tube is required.

Advantages include:

• Slower air loss if punctured.
• Reduced heat build-up.
• Lower overall weight.
• Easier roadside puncture repairs in some situations.

Most modern motorcycles fitted with cast alloy wheels use tubeless tyres.

Tube-type tyres

Tube-type tyres use a separate inner tube to hold the air pressure. They’re commonly found on traditional wire-spoked wheels, classic motorcycles and some trail and off-road motorcycles — mainly because the spoke nipples on a traditional wheel pass through the centre of the rim and would otherwise let air escape.

Some modern spoked wheels get around this by attaching the spokes to the outer edge of the rim instead, keeping the rim itself airtight and allowing them to run tubeless tyres. Although many tube-type tyres remain in production, they’re becoming less common on modern road bikes.

Can you fit a tubeless tyre with a tube?

In many cases, yes.

Many tubeless tyres are approved for use with an inner tube when fitted to an appropriate tube-type rim. However, not every tubeless tyre is suitable for this application, so always follow the tyre manufacturer’s recommendations.

Can you fit a tubeless tyre to a tube-type rim?

Not without fitting an inner tube, unless the wheel itself has been specifically converted for tubeless use.

Even if the tyre is marked “Tubeless”, a traditional spoked rim usually won’t provide an airtight seal.

For a more detailed explanation, see our Tubed vs Tubeless Motorcycle Tyres Guide.

Reading the tyre sidewall

A motorcycle tyre contains a surprising amount of information moulded into its sidewall. Understanding these markings makes it easier to choose the correct replacement tyre and check that it’s suitable for your motorcycle.

Rotation arrow – Most motorcycle tyres have a directional arrow showing the correct direction of rotation.

Always ensure the tyre is fitted with the arrow pointing in the direction the wheel rotates when travelling forwards.

Front and rear markings – Many tyres are designed specifically for front or rear fitment.

Look for markings such as Front, Rear or Front/Rear.

Although some tyres can be fitted in either position, many cannot.

TL and TT – These markings indicate whether the tyre is:

TL – Tubeless
TT – Tube Type

Date code – Every tyre carries a four-digit manufacturing date code.

For example: 2425 means the tyre was manufactured during week 24 of 2025.

This allows you to check the age of a tyre before fitting or purchasing it.

E marking – An E mark shows that the tyre meets the relevant European approval standards for road use.

DOT marking – Many tyres also carry a DOT code, identifying where and when the tyre was manufactured.

M+S – Some adventure and dual-purpose tyres are marked M+S (Mud and Snow).

This indicates the tread pattern is intended to provide improved traction in loose or slippery conditions. It should not be confused with a dedicated winter motorcycle tyre.

Manufacturer information – You’ll also find the manufacturer’s name, tyre model, size, load index and speed rating moulded into the sidewall.

Together, these markings provide everything you need to identify the tyre correctly.

Looking after your motorcycle tyres

Your tyres are one of the most important safety components on your motorcycle. A few simple checks can improve handling, extend tyre life and help you spot problems before they become serious.

Check your tyre pressures regularly

Correct tyre pressures are essential for grip, handling and tyre life.

Tyres naturally lose a small amount of pressure over time, so check them regularly using an accurate pressure gauge and adjust them to the manufacturer’s recommended figures.

Always check pressures when the tyres are cold.

Inspect your tyres regularly

Look for:

• Cuts or damage.
• Nails or other embedded objects.
• Cracks in the rubber.
• Uneven tread wear.
• Bulges or deformities.

If you notice anything unusual, have the tyre inspected before riding.

Running in new tyres

New tyres require a short running-in period while the surface becomes fully conditioned and you become familiar with their handling.

For the first 100 miles (160 km):

• Avoid harsh acceleration.
• Avoid heavy braking.
• Increase lean angles gradually.

This allows the tyre to reach its full performance safely.

We always tell customers leaving the shop on new tyres to ‘ride like it’s raining’. Ride with gentle inputs, less lean angle and a longer gap to the vehicle in front.

Keep an eye on tread wear

As tyres wear, grip in wet conditions gradually reduces.

Obviously you can run the tyres to the legal minimum tread depth before considering replacement but you’ll likely notice the grip drops off long before you get to the wear markers. If you replace your tyres when you notice the grip levels have dropped, you might not get every mile out of them but you’ll probably be a lot safer.

Looking after your motorcycle during storage

If your motorcycle is stored for an extended period:

• Inflate the tyres to the recommended pressure.
• Store the bike in a cool, dry place.
• Avoid prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.
• If possible, move the bike occasionally or use paddock stands to reduce the risk of flat spots.

Cleaning your tyres

If you need to clean your tyres, clean them with mild soap and water.

Avoid using tyre shine products or silicone-based dressings on the tread, as these can temporarily reduce grip and use plenty of water to wash off any detergent.

When should you replace your motorcycle tyres?

Motorcycle tyres don’t last forever. Even if they haven’t reached the legal tread limit, there are several reasons why replacement may be the safest option.

In the UK, the legal minimum tread depth for motorcycles over 50cc is 1mm across at least three-quarters of the width of the tread pattern, with visible tread remaining on the remainder of the tyre. However, many riders choose to replace their tyres before they reach this limit, particularly if they ride regularly in wet conditions.

Replace your tyres if:

• The tread has reached the legal minimum depth.
• The tyre has suffered significant damage.
• There are cuts, bulges or exposed cords.
• The tyre has developed severe uneven wear.
• It has become badly squared off from motorway riding.
• The tyre is ageing and showing signs of cracking.
• You no longer have confidence in its performance.

Remember that legal doesn’t always mean ideal. As tyres wear, their wet-weather performance and handling gradually decline.

If you’re unsure whether a tyre should be replaced, it’s always best to seek professional advice.

Motorcycle tyre punctures and repairs

Unfortunately, punctures are part of motorcycle ownership.

Whether a tyre can be repaired depends on the location and size of the damage, as well as the tyre manufacturer’s recommendations.

Temporary repairs

Portable puncture repair kits can be extremely useful if you’re stranded at the roadside. They’re designed to help you continue your journey safely enough to reach home or a tyre specialist, but shouldn’t be regarded as a permanent solution unless both the tyre manufacturer and repair method specifically permit it.

If there’s any doubt about the condition of the tyre, replacing it is always the safest option. After using a temporary repair, have the tyre professionally inspected as soon as possible as it’s likely the tyre specialist can apply a permanent repair, meaning you can run the same tyre and ride with confidence.

Avoid tyre slime, foam or any other products designed to be squirted into the tyre. Once one of these has been used, it’s very difficult to carry out a proper professional repair. A professional repair uses a mushroom patch fitted from the inside out, restoring the tyre to as good as it was before the puncture — but these patches won’t bond properly once slime or foam residue is present. That can mean scrapping a tyre that would otherwise have been perfectly repairable, simply because it was treated with a sealant to get you home.